The ridged cousin of paccheri, and the one to choose when the sauce is chunky. These wide tubes from the Campanian tradition make any plate look as if it means business.

Egisto Grilli makes them in Italy from durum wheat semolina, extruded through bronze dies and slow-dried at low temperature. The ridges — rigati — and the rough bronze-drawn surface give sauce every reason to stay put, while slow drying keeps the tubes firm, generous and properly al dente.

Expect a hearty, satisfying chew and a clean wheat flavour. The grooves hold on to ragù and cheese, so the sauce arrives on the fork with the pasta rather than waiting at the bottom of the dish.

Bake them with béchamel and ragù, or toss them with slow-cooked pork and fennel sausage for a Sunday lunch that nobody hurries away from.