Apricots grown, picked and jarred by the same hands, on the Tuscan coast of the Maremma. They go into the pan the day they come off the tree, which is the whole point: an apricot picked ripe tastes of the orchard, an apricot picked firm tastes mostly of the journey.

Slow-cooked in small batches, with no colourings and no preservatives. The result keeps the character of the fruit rather than burying it — gently tart at the edges, sweet without being cloying, and a deep amber-orange that comes from the apricots themselves rather than from anything added later.

Wonderful on warm bread or brioche at breakfast. It is also a very good friend to a mild pecorino or a fresh ricotta, and it does quiet, excellent work brushed over roast pork.