Pappardelle are the wide, generous ribbons of Tuscany. The name comes from pappare, to gobble, which tells you everything about how quickly they tend to disappear.

Egisto Grilli makes them in Italy from durum wheat semolina and egg, bronze-drawn for a rough surface and slow-dried at low temperature. It is the slower, more careful way of making pasta, and it gives the ribbons the strength to carry the heartiest of sauces.

The egg brings a rich, golden flavour and a silky texture, while the width gives each forkful real substance. Hearty sauces wrap themselves around the ribbons rather than sliding off.

The classic pairing is a slow-cooked wild boar or beef ragù. For something lighter, try a porcini mushroom sauce or a spoonful of truffle butter.