Spaghetti alla chitarra takes its name from the "guitar", the wooden frame strung with wires that cooks in Abruzzo use to cut sheets of pasta into strands. The result is a square-edged spaghetti with more bite and more grip than the round kind.

Egisto Grilli makes theirs in Italy from durum wheat semolina and egg, bronze-drawn and slow-dried at low temperature. The egg brings richness and a golden colour; the bronze and the slow drying give a rough surface and a firm structure.

The square profile gives a distinctive, springy chew, and the textured surface holds robust sauces beautifully. Rich but not heavy, it has real presence on the plate.

Serve it with a traditional meat ragù, or dress it with a spoonful of truffle sauce and a little of the cooking water for something quick and indulgent.