Paccheri are the big, bold tubes of Campania, and this smooth version — lisci — is the one Neapolitan cooks reach for when the sauce is the star of the show.

Egisto Grilli's paccheri are made in Italy from durum wheat semolina, extruded through bronze dies and slow-dried at low temperature. Even though they look smooth, the bronze leaves a fine texture on the surface, so the sauce still finds something to hold on to, and slow drying gives the tubes the strength to keep their shape.

The bite is substantial and satisfying, with a gentle chew that stands up to rich sauces. Wide enough to catch morsels of fish or meat inside, they make every mouthful a generous one.

Serve them with a rich seafood sugo, or stuff them with ricotta and bake with mozzarella and tomato for a proper pasta al forno.