Straccetti means "little rags", and these free-form, ruffled pieces live up to the name in the most delicious way. No two forkfuls are quite the same, which is rather the point.

Egisto Grilli's Straccetti are made in Italy from durum wheat semolina, bronze-drawn and slow-dried at low temperature. Bronze dies leave a rough, porous surface, and patient drying keeps the full character of the wheat — a method that takes longer and costs more, and shows on the plate.

The irregular shape gives a lovely mix of textures: thin, silky edges and firmer folds, all with a good al dente bite. The rough surface grabs sauce generously, so nothing is left behind in the bowl.

Toss them with crisp pancetta, grated Pecorino and plenty of cracked black pepper for a rustic supper that looks far more effort than it is.