Pantelleria is a volcanic speck of an island between Sicily and Tunisia, and its capers carry protected geographical indication (PGI) status.

These are packed in sea salt, the traditional way, rather than vinegar, which keeps their flavour pure. Supplied by Greci in a 1kg tub; 800g of it is capers.

Firm and green, they are floral and intensely savoury once the salt is rinsed off, without the sour edge of brined capers.

Soak or rinse under running water before use. They belong in puttanesca, salsa verde and vitello tonnato, and on any plate of fish.