Tomatoes and basil, and very little else. It is the hardest kind of sauce to make well, because there is nowhere to hide: if the tomatoes are ordinary, the sauce is ordinary, and no amount of seasoning will rescue it.

These are ripened properly and cooked slowly, so the sweetness concentrates rather than turning acidic. The basil goes in late, which is why it still smells of basil instead of tasting of stewed leaves. Bright, rounded, clean at the finish.

Toss through spaghetti with nothing more than a little olive oil and grated cheese. It also makes a very fine base for a pizza at home, or for anything that involves the word parmigiana.