Porcini are the aristocrats of the Italian woodland, and they cannot be farmed. They are found, in their own season, by people who know where to look — which is precisely why a good porcini sauce costs what it costs.

Cooked slowly to draw out their depth, they give a sauce that is earthy, savoury and unmistakably of the forest floor, with a meaty texture that makes it entirely satisfying without any meat in sight.

Stir through fresh tagliatelle, spoon over soft polenta, or use it to turn a risotto into the sort of thing people remember. Autumn cooking, available all year.